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Top feeder 3 in 1 free download
Spring feeding is generally recommended for new packages or nucs to help them draw comb, or in cases where a hive is feeling light before the spring nectar flow begins.
There are many different answers to this question, but it really boils down to temperature, time of year, and personal preference. For example, fall feeding using a Boardman or other entrance feeder is not recommended because it can attract robber bees. We recommend in-hive or hive top feeders during this time to keep your bees safe, and because in colder weather bees will not break cluster to go down to an entrance feeder.
As for spring feeding, in the north, we use division board or frame feeders, hive top feeders, or any feeder that can sit over the hole in the inner cover bucket feeders or Bee Smart in-hive feeders so the syrup is easily accessible even on cool days and nights. In warmer climates, an entrance feeder is fine in spring. Betterbee sells a variety of feeders. This article will dig into how to use each of them. Personal preferences for feeder designs vary widely, so experiment with your options and find the one that you and your bees prefer!
The BeeMax Hive Top Feeder is made of one seamless piece of polystyrene and comes in three different sizes: 10 frame, 8 frame, and BeeMax. It includes a Plexiglas panel and how-to-use instructions.
Before using this feeder, we recommend painting the outside surface with a couple of coats of exterior latex paint to protect it from the elements and sun damage. This helps the bees grip onto it as they make their way up from the brood chamber and down toward the syrup behind the Plexiglas safety panel. To use the feeder, remove your inner cover completely, and place the feeder on the hive. Cover tightly with only the outer cover.
Do NOT use the inner cover at all. Check out this video of how to add sugar syrup to the feeder and to see how the bees enter the feeder. This feeder holds up to gallons of syrup, depending on which style you choose, but we recommend only putting in a little at a time to get a sense of how much they drink, and how fast.
You can put a couple of drops of apple cider vinegar in with your sugar syrup to stave off mold. The Wood-Framed Hive Top Feeder is used much the same way as the BeeMax feeder, but this feeder is only available in one size that works with both 10 frame and BeeMax equipment. This feeder gives the bees access to the syrup from the brood chamber under each end.
It can hold about 1. The plastic of this feeder is easy to clean. We recommend painting the wooden exterior to extend its life. The Lyson Hive Top Feeder has the same basic design as the other two hive top feeders but is made exclusively to fit 10 frame Lyson polystyrene hives.
It includes a pair of latches to tightly secure the feeder to the rest of your Lyson equipment. An additional feature of this feeder is that it has a sliding gate in its stainless ladder, so the reservoir can also be used to feed solid winter patties and Global pollen patties.
Just open up the sliding gate to allow the bees entrance to the reservoir. Be sure this gate is closed when feeding sugar syrup, or many bees will drown. It even has device-to-device sync to keep my feeds lined up between phone and tablet, and a true tablet UI! Plus it's FOSS! I will definitely donate. Brilliant RSS reader, even easier and cleaner than the old Google reader you still miss so much. I'd like to see more ways to sort feeds e.
The only hurdle has nothing to do with the app itself, but in finding feeds. Why did most websites stop using RSS? Offering a feed is stupid easy -- set it and forget it. My only complaint is that there's no native Podcast support, which means while you can subscribe to Podcasts you'll need to play the audio in a separate app or download the audio from your browser.
Its not a huge issue, particularly when I can use AntennaPod to listen to Podcats, but it is a minor gripe. Other than that, this is great. In spring when establishing a new colony from a package, feed until there is some stored and capped honey at the top of the combs and blooms are out. In fall it depends on what how much the bees have stored over the summer. I tend to harvest surplus honey from established hives in the spring, after I know they've made it through winter with honey to spare.
I'd rather not take honey in the late summer unless I know for sure the bees have more than enough to winter on. I don't want to take too much at the end of summer only to end up feeding sugar syrup a poor substitute for their own honey in the fall to get them through the winter. Best to consult a local beekeeper or club to find out what they recommend for the weight of honey stores heading into winter for your locale. I hope you've enjoyed this Instructable.
I wish you great luck with your bees and enjoyment of them for years to come! Thanks for the great design. I used parts for a large langsroth ripped in half. I liked the bees wax water proofing. I wasn't happy with the rough texture so I put them in a warm oven for a few minutes, that sure smoothed things out also if I ever need more than 4 feeders I may modify your design to 1 go the long way 2 go in the middle of the box to create 2 reivoirs and to maximize bee access to syrup.
Reply 1 year ago. Question 1 year ago on Step 7. Thank you! Question: is one side enough to your hive? Also, did you ever look into the stainless vs galvanized question?
No worries if not; I can check, too. Answer 1 year ago. One side access has always been adequate in my experience, and leaves more space for syrup than second side access. But if you experiment with that let me know how it goes. Never have looked for the stainless mesh. Let me know if you use that, too. Good luck! This winter I built two Warre hives. Since they are not standard hive dimensions it was hard impossible to find a pre-made top feeder to fit. When I came across this project I knew it was for me.
It was about a three hour project from start to finish and I will say I am very happy with the results and it is now in my hive feeding the bees. I want to keep bees someday. I currently live in an apartment. I love your idea here. Question: any thought given to using stainless steel mesh instead of galvanized?
I don't believe sugar water causes zinc to corrode, but other things outside might. I also don't know what zinc does to bees, but if the zinc salts make it into the honey, it wouldn't be the greatest for human consumption.
How much thought is given to "food safeness" or "human consumption safeness" when designing bee keeping gadgets? For instance would you avoid building a hive structure or feeder out of lumber treated with chromated copper arsenate the green pressure treated lumber?
Reply 2 years ago. I never use treated wood for anything to go on the hive, but use a pesticide free varnish to protect the outside of the hive against our damp UK climate, or buy hive parts with western red cedar which shouldn't need treating. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. Good question regarding zinc. I hadn't thought of that issue and if I found a stainless mesh I'd probably use it just to be on the safest side, but at this point I'd have to do some research to understand how much of a potential leaching problem there really is in this application.
Lacking a stainless mesh, If someone wanted to minimize the exposure of the galvanized to the syrup, they could trim the sections of mesh that lie flat on the floor to the bare minimum, and even eliminate the mesh 'ladder' attached to the interior wall. Bees can easily walk on vertical wood surfaces, so getting rid of it might not negatively impact the function very much at all. I'll have to try it!
I'm sure most if not all beekeepers want the healthiest bees and bee products. Personally I wouldn't use pressure treated lumber for hives. Reply 3 years ago. You MUST have that ladder there, bees cannot climb with out it. Ask me how i know This is an interesting feeder. I really like how it won't disturb the hive when you check to refill in winter. Perhaps a gentle slope of the plywood would encourage the syrup to pool when low at the bee end if your hives aren't perfectly plumb?
I've always gone with a sugar to water, a five pound bag of sugar to three pints of water ratio and put that into a gallon ziplock bag. Place the bag directly on top of the bars with an empty super to provide headspace. Put two small slits in the bag with a sharp knife and the bees do the rest.
They suck it out of the bag well enough even to empty and the syrup is thick enough to not run out. Granted, I have to put on a veil to pull the old bag and put in a new one. There is also the waste of the plastic bag.
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